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Pintarroja, caldillo, tirillas and something more

The pintarroja, or Scyliorhinus canicula, is a small and harmless shark about 50 cm long, with tough and rough skin. It is very popular in Málaga, especially for the delicious “caldillo” made with it, or for its preparations marinated, fried, or used to add flavor to rice and noodles. Our academic Luis Merino fondly remembers, as a symbolic tribute to neighborhood taverns, the caldillo de pintarroja once served at the now-closed bar Los Remos, near the Church of San Pablo in the city of Málaga.

Another preparation, which years ago was more popular, especially among fishermen on fishing boats, is the making of “tirillas de pintarroja” — salted and dried, like mojama. To prepare it, the fish must first be skinned, a task that requires some skill. It is then split down the middle, but with both halves left connected at the tail. Afterward, they are rinsed, placed in salt for about 15 minutes, rinsed again, and hung out in the sun as if they were freshly washed clothes.

Then, after a variable period of time depending on weather conditions such as temperature, sunlight intensity, or humidity, we get this popular, original, and unique mojama, which can still be found in some restaurants such as Chinchín Puerto or Noray, and at the fish market Aguxa, in Málaga’s Plaza de la Luz. We’re told they use pintarrojas from Caleta de Vélez, which are smaller and tastier than those from the north.

(Photos from Aguxa fish market)

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